Klagenfurt has a huge main square (Neuer Platz) with a grotesque statue at its centre, and some nice old buildings on what are now pedestrianised streets. Everything is impeccably clean, as I've come to expect in Austria. But there are very few people – apart from a number of rich young men in noisy flash cars. According to Mein Host in the hotel, Klagenfurt is only busy June-August, and at Christmas.

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