On the way back from the train station after my day trip to the St Florian Monastery, I climbed up the very steep path and steps at the western end of the tunnel through the Mönchsberg, the wooded ridge that towers 60 metres over the south-west edge of the city. The views over Salzburg were breathtaking, and the evening sun was picking out the domes and spires of the churches.

I spent some time reviewing the places I'd been and the routes I'd followed through the city. The following morning, with sunshine forecast, I was up unusually early and by 08:00 had puffed my way up the Mönchsberg again to catch the morning sun and clear blue sky, before walking along the very pleasant and virtually deserted path through the woods to the Hohensalzburg.

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