The wonderful Bavarian Rococo Cuvilliés-Theater, designed by the diminutive François Cuvilliés (whose career started as court dwarf), was built between 1751 and 1755 by Elector Maximilian Joseph III as his new opera house. It's notable as the place where Mozart's opera Idomeneo had its premiere in 1781. Tucked away in the centre of the Residenz, I reached it after walking through a couple of superb courtyards to the Brunnenhof [Fountain Court], a large losenge-shaped space with a highly decorated fountain at the centre.
It was very peaceful, and there were few people around. I found the modern foyer and approach to the theatre, and paid my €3 to go in. "Please leave your bag outside," said the attendant. "Can I keep my camera with me?" I asked. "Yes, of course," he said. So there I was taking pictures in the very theatre that saw the first performance of Idomeneo. Not without difficulty, I might add; it's dark in there, and very red.
Outside in Max-Joseph-Platz the Residenz was having building work done so was only a painting with a big advert in the middle, and a couple of tour buses were parked in front of the National Theater. I did what I could with Max-Joseph – including a few with the advert in the background – and the front of the Theater over the buses. I came back later when the tour buses had gone and I grabbed a couple more shots.
By lunchtime the sun was very hot, and I took shelter under an umbrella in the huge Kaiserhof courtyard of the Residenz, which has a nice outside restaurant specialising in wine: the Pfältzer Weinprobierstuber. I found that they also have a large restaurant inside, and outside again the other side on Residenzstrasse, just opposite the Feldherrnhalle. |
