Munich was the birthplace of the composer Richard Strauss in 1864, although there's little now to commemorate him apart from the Richard-Strauss-Brunnen [fountain] in front of the Alte Akademie. The other musical interest for me was the Cuvilliés-Theater in the Residenz, where Mozart's opera Idomeneo had its first performance in 1781. Also on my list were the red-brick Frauenkirche with its legend of the Devil's footprint, and the rather charming carillon in the Neues Rathaus [the 'new' town hall] in Marienplatz... / more |
Richard-Strauss-Brunnen
After taking a tram from my hotel to Karlsplatz – generally known as the 'Stachus' – at the western edge of the Altstadt, I strolled through the 14th Century Karlstor [Karl's Gate] and along pedestrianised Neuhauser Strasse to the Richard-Strauss-Brunnen, a fountain erected in honour of Richard Strauss, who was born here in 1864. It's not a conventional fountain, rather a dish on top of a tall column, which drops dollops of water in different directions according to the wind. The reliefs carved on the column depict scenes and figures from Strauss's 1905 opera Salomé...
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Residenz/Cuvilliés-Theater
The wonderful Cuvilliés-Theater, designed by François Cuvilliés, was built from 1751 to 1755 by Elector Maximilian Joseph III as his new opera house. It's notable as the place where Mozart's opera Idomeneo had its premiere in 1781. Tucked away in the centre of the Residenz, I reached it after walking through a couple of superb courtyards to the Brunnenhof , a large losenge-shaped space with a highly decorated fountain at the centre. It was very peaceful, and there were few people around. Outside in Max-Joseph-Platz the Residenz was having building work done, and a couple of tour buses were parked in front of the National Theater...
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Frauenkirche
The huge red-brick Frauenkirche, built by Jörg von Halsbach as a parish church, on the site of an earlier chapel, was completed in 1488; its two distinctive copper domes were added to the towers in 1525. It is now a cathedral and the seat of the Archbishop of München-Freising. The attractive white interior comes as a surprise after the brickwork of the outside, an interesting plain design with simple octagonal pillars. I didn't appreciate the sheer bulk of the building until I got a view of it later from the tower of the Peterskirche. The church is noted for the legend of the devil's footprint...
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Neues Rathaus
The big tourist attraction in Marienplatz, the square at the centre of the old town, is the performance by the carillon in the 260ft tower of the Neues Rathaus [Town Hall], at 11:00 and 12:00 each day. Its mechanical figures re-enact a joust arranged for the marriage of Duke Wilhelm V to Renata von Lothringen in 1568, in the top section, and of the Schäfflertanz – a dance designed to cheer people up during the plague in 1517, and still performed in Munich every seven years – below it, all to a jolly tune played for several minutes on the bells. Rather charming actually, and I wish I'd had a recorder with me for the sound...
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View from above
Just off Marienplatz is the Peterskirche, locally called 'Alter Peter', where for €1.50 I climbed the 303 steps in twists and turns to the top, and a superb view – slightly higher than the view from the Altes Rathaus tower, and not as busy apparently, although I believe the Altes Rathaus has a lift. The sun was pretty strong by now, and there were good views of everyone enjoying it around the tall pillar of the Mariensäule and the Fischbrunnen [Fish Fountain] down below in Marienplatz...
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Walking east along Maximilianstrasse I overshot my turning and found myself outside the Kammerspiele [the Chamber Music Hall]. So a chance for a few photos, then back to the correct turning for the Hofbrauhaus, 'Hitler's favourite beer hall', which is just a massive pub. The city's tourist website defines its reputation as "beer, food, tourists, oompah music, drunken revelry and Lederhosen". Hmm. I heard the oompah music being played for the tourists inside, but I didn't go in (I'd left my Lederhosen at home). It might have been interesting if I'd had an hour to spare and some company. A very German thing.
Thoughts on Munich as I moved on to Salzburg: brash and busy, especially at night; not as laid back as I expected. Not as many bikes as in Bonn, and many were quite aggressive mountain bikes; more big/fat people. Much building work. Some fantastic sights, but often a van or bus in the way. I never quite felt at home here – it would certainly have been better if I was 30 years younger and in company! |
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